Every once in a while, a watch comes along that transcends mere time-telling to become a piece of pure, kinetic art. It’s a reminder that watchmaking can be whimsical, magical, and just plain fun. In our opinion, there is no better example of this horological joy than the legendary “Cocktail” watch from Ernest Borel.
Patented in 1953, the Ernest Borel Cocktail was an instant sensation and became the enduring icon of this historic Swiss brand. It took the popular mid-century concept of the “mystery dial”—a watch where the hands appear to float magically—and elevated it into a mesmerizing performance. This wasn’t just about telling time; this was about creating a hypnotic, ever-shifting piece of art for the wrist, a guaranteed conversation starter for the optimistic, stylish post-war era.
This particular example is a fantastic and beautifully preserved specimen of this iconic design. The genius lies in its unique time-telling display. Instead of a traditional handset, the hours and minutes are indicated by two red triangular markers that float around the dial’s edge. But the real magic is what happens at the center. Two stacked, skeletonized discs rotate in mesmerizing counterpoint, their overlapping geometric patterns creating a constantly shifting, kaleidoscopic dance of light and shadow. It is a truly captivating and endlessly entertaining spectacle.
This beautiful mechanism is housed in a charming gold-plated case with elegant, stylized lugs, and is powered by a robust, 17-jewel manual-winding Swiss movement—a testament to the serious watchmaking that lies beneath the whimsical facade. The kaleidoscopic dial is in excellent condition, its patterns crisp and its motion fluid. The case shows some minor, honest signs of wear, which is to be expected from a cherished piece of this vintage, and it comes fitted on a classic, period-correct expansion bracelet.